Donald Thomas is owner and CEO of American Painting and Pressure Cleaning, Inc. He is a home improvement contractor that started out in 1984.Our website http://www.americanpaintingandpressurecleaninginc.com
The focus of our planetary attention in the new millennium has got to be kept trained fully on our ever changing environment. Despite our best efforts humans have contaminated large sections of our planet and continue to waste precious resources. Many people are now working together to create innovative ways to renew or reuse our resources and stop them from being callously wasted. By focusing on conservation and recycling and by taking advantage of easy to use tools like the garden shredder, we can make a difference.
Growing your own garden is one such way to fight for our environment and way of life. Paying careful attention to the old adage of “Waste not, want not”, you can literally utilize all parts of your garden to nourish you and then use the leftovers to renew the earth. Utilizing a garden shredder makes the latter a simple task to turn your unwanted scraps into much needed fertilizer. Plus you get to eat your vegetables out of the good earth instead of a questionable plastic package.
Consider your last trip to the grocer. Was it pleasant? Did you enjoy shopping for your family and picking out each item with love and tenderness? Hardly! It is with dismay and almost visible winces of pain one sees in the eyes of the people that bravely face the event of going to the supermarket for food. By contrast I ask you to think about the last time you were working in your garden. Do you recall the way the earth feels between your fingers as you dig around in it loosening it up to plant your seed or seedling? Do you recall the gleam in your eye as you gather up your garden machinery and prepare to take on nature?
The feel of the warm sun on your face while you are picking blueberries fresh off the vine, eating more than you are putting in your bucket? If this is an experience you have never had then you simply must experience it to understand that feeling of contentment and peace that comes from collecting your food from the earth as nature intended, instead of scurrying through the aisles of a super market wondering exactly what soy lichen really is for pity’s sakes! There really is no contest, growing your own food makes it satisfying in an almost primal way. So fire up your garden shredder and get to mulching!
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GIVING YOUR KITCHEN A COMPLETE MAKE OVER…AND DOING IT ON A LOW BUDGET AT THAT— DEMOLITION: PHASE ONE Um Um good, good old home made banana pudding and chocolate cake. I can almost smell it now, the aroma slowly filling the air with delicious foods and tasty treats that makes your mouth watery just to think about it. And what about all the main entrees that go along with the tasty deserts? It’s no wonder that in our house the kitchen is our favorite place for food and good conversation and I suspect that is true for most American families…and probably for families around the world as well. What better place for friends and love ones to gather than in the kitchen for good things to eat and good things to drink. With mom in the kitchen mixing a whole lot of love with everything she prepares, how can it get any better than that?
Practically every home, condominium, townhouse and apartment has a kitchen in it, however sometimes after years of much use and abuse, kitchens can become worn, outdated; no longer functional and in some cases down right depressing. Ceilings that have collected smoke, soot, dirt and even insect bile no longer make looking up a pleasant experience; not to mention drywall (sheetrock) that looks like it might fall down any given day. Walls that have accumulated layers of thick almost immovable grease and cooking oil that looks gross. And the floor looks like it has been a long, long time ago since it was new and attractive looking. You see, kitchens take more abuse and have to endure some of the most extreme conditions, unlike any other room in your home, therefore, it is only natural that over time it will need a complete upgrade and that is what this article is all about. We did a kitchen total make over for one of our clients and we are going to tell you just how we did it…and on a very meager budget as well. Perhaps, this can be some sought of informative guide that can help you with your kitchen make over—at least we hope it does. So sit back and take a ride with us as we offer pointers and tips on how you can transform your kitchen into a beautiful new and exciting place for a much lower cost than if you hired a contractor to do it. Let’s get started.
DEMOLITION: OUT WITH THE OLD
Before you can begin implementing new and exciting changes to your kitchen you must first take the time and get rid of the old. When it comes to demolition I like to begin at the top and work my with down, in other words, I like to start with the ceiling and work my way down to the floor. Your approach may be just the opposite and if that is what you’re comfortable doing than so be it. But before you begin make sure you have on all your safety gear and safety goggles on. The operative word is safety and working safely is paramount to everything else. If you need to file a permit with your local officials by all means do so. And if you feel uncomfortable doing this type of work hire a contractor. This type of work is dirty and nasty and it can be very, very dangerous; so be careful and avoid any and all accidents. We do this for a living and we abide by these same rules and safety measures that I’m giving you, so practice safety every step of the way.
Before I begin to tear out the old drywall in the ceiling, I remove the lighting fixture in the ceiling and then I cover the expose electrical wires with electrical tape or electrical twist caps. If need be, go to your breaker box and turn off the electricity that leads to the kitchen. Again, if you’re uncomfortable doing this, then be sure to contact a reputable contractor and leave all the cares and responsibilities for him to deal with. This type of work is not for everybody and everybody is not comfortable doing it. But for those who are and those who want to do it than let’s continue on. Generally speaking, when it comes to tearing out old drywall you can use any number of tools to get the job done, but I prefer to use a hammer and sometimes even a shovel. Ceilings are usually eight feet high and higher, so I use a tool that allows me to stand on the floor and reach up and tear the drywall out. If your ceilings are higher you may need the use of a stepladder or even scaffolding, it just depends on what is more comfortable for you. Most of the tools use for demolition can be rented from your local rental center, or you can buy tools and equipment from your neighborhood home improvement center—the options are open.
Once the drywall has been removed from your ceiling you will need to go on and remove the nails/screws that held the drywall in place. Simply remove the nails with a hammer and the screws with a screw gun/cordless drill. You must remove all nails and screws from the ceiling joists in order to install the new drywall.By now all the appliances, cookware, dishes and counter top items should have been removed from the room, if not, you should do it now. If you can’t remove your stove and refrigerator make sure it is covered well. It would be ideal to have everything removed from the room, however, sometimes that is not an option; so all that you cannot remove from the room just make sure it is completely covered to protect it from dirt, dust and flying debris. If your ceiling is a plaster ceiling and it is in need of repair, you might want to call a plaster contractor to take a look at it, but if it is in relatively good condition with the exception being a few hair line cracks then you should be able to do that yourself. And if you have a ceiling that is wood then by all means check to see if the wood is warped: bowed; broken; splintered or just plain old ugly; if so, it should be repaired or removed. In order to give your ceiling a fresh new attractive look you must do away with the old and start anew.
DEMOLITION: PHASE TWO
With the ceiling completely removed and the ceiling joists cleaned of old nails/screws we can proceed to remove the walls. This can be difficult to do if some of your large appliances are still in place. Getting behind the refrigerator and stove will be hard to do with them still in place, but if you are doing a complete make over to your kitchen then nothing should be left in place. You really have to find a place to store your large appliances as well as the smaller ones. If you are going to replace them then you should be able to get the company that’s delivering your new appliances to carry them off for you, if not, then you might have to arrange to have an independent trash hauler pick them up for you at an additional charge, I’m just not sure how that works in your area. But if you plan to reuse them as part of your new kitchen decor then make sure they are well covered and protected. Plastic covering should suffice, but be sure to use multiple layers of plastic for added protection. Make sure the dishwasher has been disconnected and moved out of the room and remember to turn off the water supply line so that you will not flood your home and possibly your neighbors as well. This part can get really serious so you might need to consult with a plumber to assist you and removing faucets and so forth. Remember, if you’re unfamiliar with this aspect of demolition don’t hesitate to call in a professional plumber that is reputable in your area. You could be in for a very large lawsuit(s) if you make a mistake in this area, so tread these waters with the utmost of care.
TEARING OUT THE CABINETS AND WALLS
Somehow old kitchen cabinets really get a bad rap, although for years when they were in their prime they were the darling of the kitchen, they were loved and adored, but now that many moons have come and gone and they have lost their luster and charm, they have become the scorn of many a housewife. So now is the time to say good riddance to them—both top and bottom set. They are no longer needed or wanted and the time has come for their demise. Say goodbye to your old friends and let the demolition commence. And now that they have been completely removed somehow your kitchen look miraculously larger…and much more roomier. This can only start your imagination to begin running non stop at all the possibilities for your new kitchen make over, but wait a minute there we have more work to do…much more work to do.
Before you begin taking out the old walls in your kitchen, first check to see if there is any baseboards, trim or even shoe moulding that needs to be removed before you proceed. If indeed it is then by all means remove it before you attempt to tear out the walls; it will make it much more easier to do then to leave the trim and baseboards in place. This is also a good time to remove all doors and door casing too. You really don’t want any hindrance when it comes to tearing out your walls. Again, a good hammer will suffice when it comes to tearing out your walls, but you may prefer a sledge hammer or a short handle shovel, or a crow bar; whatever feel comfortable and workable for you—use that. Make sure the electricity is still off because you don’t won’t to be electrocuted due to negligence on your part, so be ever watchful and stay alert. Like the ceiling, you must remove all the old drywall that’s covering your studs in order to facilitate a complete kitchen make over. So get rid of all that old drywall and start fresh. If there are some pieces and panels of drywall that looks good, then by all means allow it to remain, but in my opinion it would just be best to remove the remaining pieces/panels and go with all new drywall.
REMOVING THE FLOORING
With everything practically cleaned out of the kitchen there should be only one thing left—the floor. Whatever it is; vinyl, linoleum, ceramic tile, natural stone, or whatever, it must be removed in order to make way for the new flooring. If you choose to keep it; that might be a viable option if it is stable and in good condition, that is good enough condition to apply a new floor on top of it without causing a problem or premature floor failure. I personally like to remove all existing flooring to avoid any possible problems down the road and not only that but I am just as concern with the subflooring that lies underneath the finish floor. And my concerns don’t stop there because the foundation is the key to a successful flooring project. It doesn’t matter what type of flooring you choose to install, one thing is for sure, if your foundation is bad your flooring project will subsequently end in failure…and that’s a written guarantee you can bank on. Make sure your foundation is solid and level and ready to receive a finish floor on top of it. If you need to call out a foundation contractor don’t neglect to do it.Assuming that you have chosen to remove your old finish flooring, make sure you have done it thoroughly.
DEMOLITION:CONCLUSION
In your quest to remodel/renovate your kitchen it is imperative that you remove the old in order to make room for the new. Personally, I really do enjoy doing demolition work. Although it is hot and sweaty work (doesn’t matter what season of the year), I truly enjoy removing the old and making way for the new. But in caution just let me say this: demolition is not a time for indiscriminate destruction, instead, it is a time for careful planning and even more carefulness when it comes to executing your plans. Demolition can be a real opportunity for irreversible destruction cause by a careless worker that’s working in a mindless way. Instead of using this as an opportunity to get familiar with the anatomy of your kitchen, a foolish person will use this as an opportunity to vent rage or worst to have fun. Both attitudes or inappropriate for this type of work and both attitudes are responsible for countless injuries and many deaths that have occurred while doing demolition work. So be smart and stay safe.
Disclaimer: This author assumes no responsibility for any injuries or deaths that might occur base on the content of this article. This article is written for the sole purpose of informing and entertaining. Please be advise to call a reputable contractor in your area. Thank you.
About the Author
Donald Thomas is owner and CEO of AMERICAN PAINTING AND PRESSURE CLEANING,INC.He has been in the home improvement business since 1984. Please feel free to visit our website for more full length feature articles and a whole lot of neat tools and equipment. http://www.americanpaintingandpressurecleaninginc.com
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Epoxy Floors, Wear vs. Failure:
There are many types of liquid applied floor coatings. Acrylics, epoxies, polyurethanes and polyureas are some of the most common. Within these groups are countless formulations and cross linked combinations. Often I am called on to examine floor coatings that are worn out and/or failing. Sometimes the cause is obvious, but sometimes it cannot be easily (i.e. affordably) determined. It is important to understand the difference between wear and failure.
Wear comes from use and abuse. While the service life different types of coatings varies greatly, they are all subject to wear and any coating can be scratched by hard and pointy objects being dragged across the surface. Foot and wheeled traffic, sliding objects and materials (especially with dirt or other abrasives present) and chemical degradation all contribute to wear. If you observe thinned out and balding areas, scratches (especially with a definable scratch pattern) and scuffs, this is wear. The effects of wear can be minimized by the selecting a coating material suitable for the type of traffic and chemical exposure the floor will be subjected too. Regular cleaning is a big factor in the service life of a coating. Finally, topdressing when a coating material is showing general signs of wear and the application of sacrificial coatings in high wear areas will prolong a floor’s life indefinitely.
A coating is failing when there is a breakdown of its bond to the substrate. This will manifest itself as flaking or sheeting of the coating material. The most common cause of bonding issues is improper surface preparation. Poor bonding profiles and improper cleaning of the substrate before application of the coating will likely create this type of failure. Bonding can also be broken by moisture vapor pressure coming through the concrete. This will manifest itself as bubbles or blisters. Other causes of bonding issues come from substrate contamination. Curing compounds and chemicals absorbed into the slab during previous service can create a problem with the bonding and affect the curing of your coating. Another type of coating failure occurs when the coating material breaks down and becomes sticky or friable. This can result from chemicals it’s exposed to and sometimes I’ll come across a coating that that was improperly blended on site or improperly formulated at the plant.
There is no “cure all, do all” coating for any and every application. A properly selected, applied and maintained liquid floor coating can provide an attractive and durable surface at a great value, especially when considering the cost per square foot per year of service life. Working with a coating contractor who is knowledgeable of his materials and diligent with his application processes will help insure you get the best value from the dollars you invest into your floor.
Jim Jarrell
High Tech Surface Solutions, Inc.
www.diacrete.com
Owner, High Tech Surface Solutions, Inc., which develops and implements concrete coloring, coating and finishing systems. My background is in industrial concrete protection and repair. In the early 1990′s I developed a concrete polishing process (Diacrete) and began to experiment with dyes and acid stains for coloring concrete. My goal is to stay on the cutting edge of decorative concrete with application techniques and improved coating systems.
Subdivisions are mass graded. This means an undesirable building location(lots of steep grade are uneven lots) is transformed into individual flat or moderately sloped lots by movement of dirt. This usally includes removal of soil at hill(the cut lot),which which is them imported to other areas on site to create fill areas(the fill lot) or cut-fill areas(transitional lot).Cut lot tens to perform well since the soil is undisturbed where the hill was removed.Fill lot can compact more once the home is completed;this movement,however,is usually uniform and rarely cause distress th the home. These condition are consider when inspecting a home when built from mass graded lots. The homes soil,and foundation are in constant movement and forces fighting against one another.New homes may not give any indication of foundation issues for several years down the road.Although there are methods for inspectors to gauge that accurate standards were followed site prep,and adequate footing drains to help with hydrostatic pressure against the structures foundation.A strong foundation and proper lot drainage is the key to a stable foundation.In a perfect world every property would be built on the perfect lot,but as I know and you should as well this can not always be the chase.
A structure is expected to stand up. The force of gravity is constantly working to bring it down.A structure has to be designed to resist gravity.It must support its own weight,which is called DEADLOAD of the structure.It must also support the live load which are imposed open it,which include the people inside,the furniture,and other weight such as snow,and the materials used in the roof structure skeleton.
A structure does transfer its weight through the exterior walls,and load bearing partions to the foundation which in then transfers the weight to the soil through the footing.Not only is a structure expected to stand up, it is also expected to stand still. The structure movement is partially determined by the conditions of the soil support the structure,and proper drainage around the stucture.When the ground below the house fails,the house sinks, soil moves. The foundation resists the pressure of the soil against the structure.Homes built on the proper site should be built strong enough to resist this natural pressure.
MOVEMENT:
The effects of settlement and movement on a home and their effects on the rest of the structure are not always obvious.While some signs are obvisous,other signs might need more in depth study to determine the cause of underlying issues.Wall cracks appear as the result of overloading or because of settlement or heaving. The location of the cracks can be a clue to what is going on to the foundation.
Is a dynamic system.Soil Moves.A house built on the bottom of a hill can have soil moving toward it over time and exerting more and more pressure against the foundation.It may be pushed from its original position.
WINDS
Plays an effective upon a structure.With heavy winds theres forces of pulling,and uplifting.Structures must be strong enough to resist these forces as well.
Vertical Cracks:
Are most often caused as a result of settlement of the structure,soilcompacting,or soil washing away under the footings.It occurs when there is an upward overload force next to a downwards overload force. They can also occur after remolding,when new dead loads are added to the structure,or by adding very heavy live loads.
Vertical cracks that extend down to the footings may be serious and should be investigated carefully. This could be cause by uneven settlement of the building and could indicate the wall is separating-one part settling more on one side of the crack than the other. The crack extending to the footing could also indicate a failure of material such deteriorating block,decayed mortar,or weak concrete,or improper construction standards.
Angled Cracks:
Appear when the upload and download force offset each other. They can appear when there is major difference in the soil under the home from one location to another,heaving of the soil,and resulting footing failure.Angled cracks can appear in pairs,where a load in one direction is offset by a pair of loads from other direction.When a crack is a single corner of the house,it can indicate a broken footing because of the soil underneath,expansive clay soilsor even the uplift from heavy tree roots in that location.
Horizontal Cracks:
On the foundation stem wall can indicate pressure being applied from the outside. The cause can be soil pressure against the wall,improper backfilling,and surface problems such as poor downspouts,Grade of lot,surface water drainage that allow water to pool around the foundation and increases the pressure pushing against the wall.When the wall is actually displaced-when the surface of the wall is out of alignment and the crack is wider on the inside face of the wall,serious problems can result.
There are other cause for horizontal cracks in foundation walls. There could be a vertical overload on the wall.Or the crack could be caused by settlement,where the wall has dropped when the soil underneath settled.
Internal Stresses:
The integrity of a structure depends on each individual structure members.A structure is in a constant state of Stress as individual member extert forces upon each other.For example,Floor joists spanning the structure would sag without the restraints and support provided by girders,which in turn push on supporting columns. These supoort systems must work in concert with each other without excerting more load to one another and resulting in damage.Structural member have two forces working on them at all times compression,and tension.Members of the structure has forces such as shearing,and bending.Individual members may fail under these stresses.A home inspection, the inspector looks for these underlying problems.
The building Inspector Code Enforcement Professional Certification Program adopted by the Association provides a means of gaining recognition of the competency levels acceptable for inspection responsibilities and improved professional standing in the community. SBCCI (Southern Building Code Congress International) CAB0/ICC (Council of American Building Officials/International Code Council) Member Housing Institute,Inc CPHB (certified professional home builders
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If you’re serious about bowhunting, it is important to invest in some basic bowhunting equipment. You only need two equipments to actually start bowhunting: a bow and an arrow.
Bow
The bow is the curved piece of wood or metal, whose ends are joined together by a string. It is used to project the arrow towards the target. There are different kinds of bows available in the market for various forms of archery. These include the self bow, the composite bow, and the flatbow to name a few. For bowhunting, the most commonly used are compound bows, which are bows that have been designed to minimize the force necessary to keep the bowstring taut. When a compound bow is drawn at its maximum capacity, it can help hold up to two times its draw weight. This kind of bow uses elliptical wheels or cams in order to accomplish this. Aside from compound bows, there are other bows that can be used in bowhunting. These include recurve bows, which are bows whose tips bend away from the user when unstrung, and longbows, which are classic bows that have narrow D-shaped limbs.
In certain locations, crossbows, which are mechanically drawn bows, may be used. A crossbow is a very powerful piece of equipment. The main advantage of the crossbow is that it is not limited by the strength of the user; however, it is also a heavier piece of equipment and cannot be fired as fast as other kinds of bows. This kind of bow is best used by more advanced bowhunters.
Arrow
The arrow is the pointed tool that is shot using the bow. It is composed of the arrowhead in front, the shaft, and fletchings and nock at the end. Different materials, such as aluminum, carbon and even fiberglass, are used to make the arrow shafts. These materials can help determine the weight of the arrow, which is important when deciding what kind of arrow to use. If you need arrows that are fast, then you should get a lightweight arrow, such as one made of carbon. If you need arrows that can penetrate deep, then you should get heavier arrows, such as one made of aluminum.
Arrows also have different arrowheads, depending on the arrow’s use. Broadhead arrows are the most commonly used for hunting. These arrows contain sharp edges that are able to cause a great amount of bleeding. Blunt arrows may also be used in bowhunting, but only to stun small game. Meanwhile, field tip arrows are best used when practicing, as these arrows tend to not get stuck in the targets.
There are also different kinds of fletchings used in arrows. You can use feather fletchings or the newer plastic vanes. You can also use straight or helical fletchings, with the helical type being the more recommended variety.
Before buying, do your research. Ask an expert to help you decide on the equipment that will fit you, and try shooting with these equipments. Once you’ve found the right equipment for you, you can build your own bowhunting set in no time!
Basic Bowhunting Equipment for Gardening – an informative article provided by http://shop.eaglearchery.com. Visit us online today for Archery Equipment like Lighted Nocks!
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