Joyce embraces the “Cannabis Culture” at http://www.cali9.com
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The Medical Marijuana patient is permitted to grow marijuana in many states. Indeed, growing your own marijuana is a sound decision – particularly if your rate of consumption is high. Doing so also lets you have unlimited supply of your favorite strain of weed. Unless you own a vast estate, your best bet for growing marijuana is to grow your crop indoors using a hydroponics system. Prices for hydroponics systems range from $300 to many thousands of dollars. Different hydroponic systems largely vary according to (a) amount of automation (b) one stage only vs. all-inclusive mother plant area, vegetation and flowering area. The latter is more preferred because you will have a permanent mother plant that gives you access to unlimited clones anytime. There are also a few efficient low-end systems in Stealth Hydroponics. Their grow tents are very useful if you don’t have a closet. If you want the Rolls Royce of hydroponic gardening, take a look at BC Northern Lights. Of course, you want to grow as big a plant as possible. Note, however, that this can have a negative impact. Each plant requires a footprint of at least three feet by three feet. Any less and your lights will not illuminate much below the top two feet of your plant. Another problem with trying to grow huge marijuana plants is that if you are not careful, they can grow right past the lights. To ensure that you are on the right track, remember these: (1) during the flowering stage, your plant will grow one and one-halffeet and (2) you must start the flowering process when the plants reach to within 24″ of the lights in their highest position. Depending on the strain, this can be somewhere from three weeks to eight weeks from starting with a clone. The trade secret to success in trying to grow marijuana is to find a source for clones. This shall ensure that your plant will be female and that it will survive (the most fragile stage in a plant life is the first two weeks). The great thing is that once you have a clone, you can make clones of your own and have a perpetual crop going year-round. Just like any other crop, marijuana needs advanced nutrients. Miracle Gro as well as other normal fertilizers will not work. Both Stealth Hydroponics and BC Northern Lights provide great advanced nutrient products. If you follow a rigorous schedule of draining and refilling the water every 2 weeks and adding nutrients as required, you definitely will succeed. Tap water, let set for about 10 minutes is more than perfect. Of course, give your plants that needed attention: control the pH level, CO2, temperature and humidity. Instead of obsessing about this, I’ve found the reality to be that marijuana is a weed….it takes quite a bit to kill it. One caution on nutrients, don’t add the first round until 2 weeks after you’ve started your clones in the vegetation stage. A final word regarding lighting. Lighting is crucial. You can make use of silver halide and other high tech lights, or you can use CFL fluorescent lights. They’ll all work just fine. The Flower Spectrum is set in the 2700 Kelvin range, Vegetation Spectrum, in the 6000 Kelvin range. Thus, it’s useful to take note of both spectrums; but of course, focus more on the one that matches the stage where your marijuana growth is at. Total time from clone to harvest when you grow marijuana is somewhere around twelve weeks. Yield is around 4-6 ounces per plant.
Medical Marijuana & the Greenhouse Effect
Even in a warm climate growing State like California, gardeners still make use of the Greenhouse. The so-called “greenhouse effect” ensures that heat from the sun is trapped inside the greenhouse. Sunlight enters as short-wave radiation which can pass through glass. Once reflected by the plants and soil, it becomes long-wave radiation which cannot penetrate the glass to get out.
The Medical Marijuana grower now takes over, and nature is relegated to a back-seat driver status. Cultivation under the Greenhouse effect allows for total control of the plants environment – soil, water, temperature and light.
The object of the Greenhouse is to increase the range of plants grown, or to lengthen their useful season Medical Marijuana is also afforded some privacy, as prying neighbors or rip-off artists, do not need to see your lush medicinal wonderland. The best type of Greenhouse is one with a topsoil bottom. A 10×10 box frame of corrugated fiber-glass and 2x4s works wonders. This type of lay-out is great for growing huge Sativa strains or Sativa/Indica mixed varieties. When the plants reach ceiling high, the main stem (cola)
can be cut, or topped off. You may be hesitant to do this at first, but it makes your plants fill out all around, similar to pruning.
In colder climates, it’s probably best to use large pots of soil medium/fertilizer mixes for your plants. Utilizing the winter sun to keep the Greenhouse effect, is foremost in the colder States.
Many growers have an indoor garden, outdoor garden, and Greenhouse – operating all at once. The indoor garden may be a “seeder crop”, designed to produce an abundance of seeds, possibly leading to the next hybrid as well. The outdoor garden could have only the smaller Indica plants growing, and the Greenhouse could have Sativa’s, mixes, and sometimes year-round cultivation going on. As long as your plants are fairly warm, you’ll enjoy the Greenhouse effect.
Caution: make sure you are well hydrated before entering in the Greenhouse to work. While weeding, watering, or checking for pests, you may get a little light headed from the heat build-up, especially during summer months. Try to garden in the morning or late evening, to avoid the Greenhouse effect, affecting you. Have fun, and keep growing American.
Joyce
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Although many features of traditional house design seem decorative,upon closer inspection, reveal a practical side.Wood wainscoting and chair rails which add such charm and beauty to the heavily used rooms in houses from the Colonial period through the Victorian Age and beyond,were intended to protect from the inevitable bumps and bruises of chairs and tables.
Changes in architecture and taste,and in the economics of construction,these features had almost completely disappeared.Lower level walls appear somewhat bland and empty,and are unprotected.Applying wainscoting and chair rails to the lower walls can dress up a room with a variety of textures,lines,and colors,while protecting the walls as well.
Wainscoting and chair rails has again,become popular in todays modern day decor.
The height of the wainscoting,capped by a chair rail can be anywhere from 30″ to 36″above the floor,where you establish this line depends on room demensions,the heights of the ceiling and window sills.
There are two choices for wainscoting materials:individual,solid-wood boards,or laminated-wood sheet product.
1″by 4″ tongue-and-groove,bead boards-provide an informal, country look,common in the late 19th-and early 20th-century farmhouses.The right way to install it involves a good deal of work,but the end result is a built-in,great look of the finished product.
You will have to cut and remove the wallboard in the area to be covered,let in 1″by4″ nailers across the studs,install the vertical wainscoting,and cap it with the chair rail.Remove Door and window caseings,baseboards,as well as anything else that may interfere with the removal of the wallboard.
Establishing a level line for the chair rail is important,and if you intend to install in more than one room,measure from the ceiling,as floor levels may vary depending on floor coverings and sub-flooring.
Once the wall-board is removed,snap lines on the exposed studs and cut notches 3/4″deep for the 2″by4″nailers top and middle.The sole plate will serve as bottom nailer.
The sheet products can be installed in a quicker,more economical,and much less messy way by simply glueing and tacking over the wallboard,useing construction adhesive and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Wainscoting and chair rail ,is both attractive and functional.It not only adds interest to a room but helps protect the walls as well.Of course the wall-removal type of installation is more labor-intense and will produce more mess than the tack-and-glue method,but in either case the room can still be used during the course of the project.
For a reasonable cost and only minor inconvenience,you can completely change the look of any room in which wainscoting and chair rasil are appropriate.
Paul Beaudette is a handyman and you can get more information by visiting his Website at..http://home-improvement-hardware.com
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